Lagos Fashion Week Unveils the Visionaries: Five Designers Redefining the Runway

Lagos Fashion Week has once again transcended expectations, presenting a triumphant showcase of designers who are redefining the fashion landscape. In this review, we introduce you to five standout designers who stole the spotlight and infused the event with fresh, culturally rich perspectives.

Kente Gentlemen: A Cultural Renaissance

Aristide Loua, the visionary behind Kente Gentlemen, made his illustrious debut at Lagos Fashion Week. Hailing from Côte d'Ivoire, Loua's brand masterfully intertwines tradition and modernity, with the iconic Ghanaian textile, Kente cloth, at its core. Loua's mission extends beyond fashion; it's a profound commitment to preserving and revitalizing ancient traditions. The fabrics he employs are lovingly handcrafted by weaving communities in Côte d'Ivoire and Ghana, transformed into contemporary silhouettes that effortlessly transcend borders.

In a backstage interview, Aristide Loua shared his inspiration: "This collection is a tribute to the power of black women, like Robin Givens, who reshaped stereotypes in the '90s. I wanted to celebrate their strength and influence through my designs."

Loua's Lagos Fashion Week debut follows his recent triumph in the African Fashion Up incubator program, backed by industry giants like Galeries Lafayette and Balenciaga. This season, Kente Gentlemen expanded into womenswear, a bold step that promises exciting new horizons. For fall, Loua draws from an unconventional muse: Robin Givens's iconic performance in the 1992 rom-com, "Boomerang." She portrayed a character who defied expectations, donning a series of oversized jackets, coats, and suits. "She created a new archetype of a Black woman lead, and I'm exploring that with this collection," Loua reflects.

Loua introduces a fresh pattern that gracefully weaves through his collection, from cropped and oversized blazers to fitted dresses with deep yet elegant V-necklines. At the heart of his lineup lies signature tailoring, resplendent "royal colors," and hand tie-dyed organic cotton fabrics from Bassam, Côte d'Ivoire. One standout ensemble pairs an asymmetrical open wrap skirt with royal blue and pink chequered trousers and an oversized, double-breasted overcoat. The runway pulses with the rhythmic vibes of Gadji Celi's "Femme de Feu," setting the stage for a new chapter.

As we ponder what lies ahead for the brand, one question lingers: could a Balenciaga collaboration be on the horizon? Thanks to his African Fashion Up win, Loua is currently immersed in mentoring sessions with Balenciaga and whispers that he's "hoping for a small collection with the brand, so fingers crossed."

Emmy Kasbit: A Revival of Tradition

Emmanuel Okoro, the creative genius behind Emmy Kasbit, captured the essence of history in his latest collection. Inspired by his father's cherished Ukara cloth, a traditional textile of Igboland, southeastern Nigeria, Okoro forayed into signature prints for the first time. The result was an unexpected yet refreshing fusion of tradition and contemporary style. The look is elegantly simple: a black shirt and trousers, embellished with a warm magenta Ukara cloth elegantly wrapped around the waist.

The collection further explores tailored pieces, like a pale blue blazer paired with slim-fitting trousers, with fabrics ranging from Akwete, another traditional Nigerian material, to silk and linen. Okoro's departure from heavily structured designs towards more fluid, versatile pieces that transition seamlessly from day to night breathes new life into the brand.

Okoro's collection embraces inclusivity and diversity, reflecting a commitment to making fashion accessible to a wide-ranging audience.

The 30 looks exhibited are more commercial and wearable than past Emmy Kasbit collections, embodying Okoro's vision of fashion that people can effortlessly "grab and go." The show concluded with a surprise appearance by Governor Babajide Sanwo-Olu, an electrifying moment that divided the crowd, sparking both standing ovations and stunned expressions.

Orange Culture: A Homecoming Spectacle

Adebayo Oke-Lawal, the dynamic force behind Orange Culture, made a triumphant return to Lagos Fashion Week after a two-year hiatus. The local fashion scene buzzed with anticipation, welcoming the 2015 LVMH Prize-shortlisted designer with open arms.

"An Orange Culture show is a celebration of people," Oke-Lawal declared backstage. His vision unfolded as friends, influencers, and creatives congregated in a vast concrete studio bathed in dim orange lights. The show was a multidimensional spectacle, uniting music, fashion, and culture. It commenced with a captivating performance by Afrofusion singer-songwriter David Tokuma Dekor, known as 'Pawzz,' and unfolded with a diverse cast that graced the runway.

The audience was visibly enthralled as Oke-Lawal presented both new and classic Orange Culture pieces. Standing ovations and awestruck faces were testament to the electrifying atmosphere.

Oke-Lawal's collection spanned a diverse range, from a crocheted ocean blue dress to a tailored women's suit, initially worn by musician Adekunle Gold and repurposed for this season's showcase. Oke-Lawal's designs resonate with the modern Nigerian shopper and an international audience, offering modern and glamorous shapes, like a black sequined short-sleeve shirt paired with a silk maxi skirt.

In a poetic reflection, Oke-Lawal compared designing to waves, noting that this show marked the end of a decade-long stretch. He hinted at a forthcoming, entirely different wave for Orange Culture, leaving us eagerly anticipating the brand's next chapter.

Lagos Fashion Week continues to redefine the runway, and these three designers, with their distinct styles and fresh perspectives, are undoubtedly shaping the future of fashion. As we look forward to what's next, these visionaries have left an indelible mark on the global fashion landscape.

Abigail Ajobi: Unapologetic Individuality

Abigail Ajobi's show at Lagos Fashion Week exuded an undeniable aura of "Hey, I'm the main character. Watch me." It was unexpected, had the crowd wowing and cheering, and brought an array of fresh perspectives to the runway. For their SS24 collection, titled "Anti-Muse," Ajobi embraced a contrary approach, becoming their own muse. Ajobi boldly walked down the runway wearing a sketchy ripped-shoulder top and zipped-slit skirt, embodying the essence of their collection.

The collection itself was a mesmerising reflection of the early aughts, effortlessly blurring the line between old Y2k nostalgia and contemporary street style. It featured models donning knitted crop tops, crafty bikini tops, net-shirts, hoodies, denim zipped gowns, and miniskirts. The prints seemed to take center stage, as if the designer aimed to spark a captivating conversation about the brand and its ethos.

Tzar Studios: A Journey Through Nostalgia

For Ian Audifferen, the creative director of Tzar Studios, crafting a collection entirely inspired by past memories held immense significance. Titled "Nostalgia," the collection offered viewers a nostalgic journey, with every detail telling a story. The runway came alive with models gracing it in fluid gowns, tight-collared kaftans, golden off-shoulder dresses, and high-waisted miniskirts. Audifferen masterfully immersed the audience in a new world filled with imagination, from the hairstyle-looks inspired by the 2001 Miss World queen, Agbani Darego, to the melodic resonance of Sade Adu's "Kiss of Life" and a set inspired by the playful game of hide and seek.

Audifferen shared his sentiments, saying, "Nostalgia, for me, is the smell of tapestry I played hide and seek in, long afternoons after school hours in my uniform, and reflecting on all the little pockets of memories of my younger self that help me understand why I am the way I am today."