Must Watch Shows at London Fashion Week
With the 40th edition of London Fashion Week on the horizon, anticipation is building as some of the industry's most innovative designers prepare to showcase their latest creations. From the whimsical world of Molly Goddard to the bold and subversive designs of Chet Lo, the runway is set to be a display of talent and creativity. As we eagerly await the unveiling of their new collections, let's have a closer look at what these trailblazing designers have brought to the fashion scene in the past and explore the unique stories woven into their garments. Join us at Kids These Days as we delve into the captivating realms of Molly Goddard, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, and Ahluwalia, and discover why their shows are among the must-watch events at this season's London Fashion Week.
Molly Goddard
Growing up in West London’s Ladbroke Grove, Molly Goddard never anticipated owning her own label. However, one night in 2015, she held a fashion party for her friends using her own designs, which drew both attention and orders from onlookers. Just one year later in 2016, Goddard was awarded the Emerging Talent award at the BFA, and in 2017, she was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. Her style is characterized by her manipulation of material and subversion of traditionally "cheap" fabrics
Her last collection was inspired by previous visits to Christie’s auction house during show preparation and seeing all these masterpieces lying on the floor. The collection itself focused on exposing the way the garments work and turning them inside out. In preparation for the collection, she researched at the National Theatre and studied stitched clockwork garments. All the preparation for the collection was clear in the final outcome, and we at Kids These Days can’t wait to see what she has in store for us this season!
Chet Lo
Chet Lo is a London-based Asian-American designer. In 2015, Lo arrived in London from New York, following his enrollment in the BA Knitwear course at Central Saint Martins. During his studies, Lo developed a fascination with the potential of knitwear. After his first few successful collections, he joined Fashion East, and then became a part of the BFC’s NEWGEN scheme. Over his career, Lo has been featured in every magazine from Vogue to Crack and has had creations worn by the likes of Zendaya and Kali Uchis.
Lo’s last collection was as sexy, playful, and subversive as ever, focusing on his off-kilter sex appeal and flattering popcorn knit technique. The collection also reflected his perception of his sexuality as a queer person of color, with the more naked looks addressing the lack of diversity in porn. Much of the source material for inspiration was ancient Chinese erotic art and Japanese shunga, with shibari influences materializing as lace-up details and intricate woven breastplates. This follows his previous show’s themes of depression and gender discovery, and we can’t wait to see what he has coming this season!
Conner Ives
Similarly to Chet Lo, Conner Ives was born and raised in New York but relocated to London to study a Bachelor's in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins. Much of Ives’ design process is influenced by his childhood memories and the girls and women he grew up with. He focuses on telling stories through his work and his unique lens on Americana. He achieves this through his unique usage of vintage garments as raw material and regenerating them into something brand new.
His last collection was inspired by social media and internet culture. Entitled “Late Capitalism,” the collection aimed to open discussion about economic realities in fashion. As part of the collection, he repurposed 15,000 t-shirts, partnering with Depop for the raw materials. Expanding beyond his usual offerings of t-shirts and dresses, the collection included more tailored pieces and eveningwear, including one dress made from 9,000 soda can tabs and a cowrie shell clip, in reference to early forms of currency. One reason why we are such big fans of Ives is the perfect balance between craftsmanship and humor in his clothes.
Ahluwalia
Ahluwalia is a brand founded by Priya Ahluwalia, inspired by her Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots. Similar to Conner Ives, Ahluwalia’s focus is on vintage and surplus clothing, but she uses unique textile and patchwork techniques, with many pieces being one of a kind. Much of her work is inspired by art, music, and literature, with her work extending to books and films. Priya herself is also signed to Ridley Scott’s film label, Black Dog Films, and has been recognized as a fashion pioneer, in magazines like the New York Times and Vogue.
Her last show took place at the British Library, aligning with the theme of her work as a cross between her heritage and upbringing. The collection, “Acknowledgements,” revolved around bringing attention to forgotten or untold stories about various individuals and was inspired by The New York Times’s “Overlooked” series, with Ahluwalia exploring the historical exclusion of women, people of color, and LGBTQ+ individuals in particular. The collection aimed to inspire fashion students to research and recognize forgotten figures at the British Library. Collection after collection, Ahluwalia brings unique references and points of view to the runway, and her upcoming collection is set to be the best one yet.
With such exciting designers presenting their latest collections and it being the 40th anniverary of London Fashion Week, we can’t wait to see what these designers and more showcase. Stay tuned to Kids These Days for our LFW coverage.